911 and 912
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By johnsopa
#20037
Figured I'd post this here since 964 and 993 people can respond...

My '90 964 has 50k miles, runs great but leaks a bit. It was never resealed. I replaced the clutch and installed a LFW and did the valves last winter. I wanted to sell the car but my wife loves driving it but it seems a bit slow /sluggish to me compared to our other cars.

So, I was going to bite the bullet and have Steve Weiner do the rebuild, doing a 3.8 with ITBs. However, he retired and I will have some time this winter, so I'm thinking of doing the rebuild myself.

I would have to send things out for machining (machine the heads for a gasket, clean up the heads, maybe do bore-in 3.8 P&Cs), but feel comfortable doing all the prep and assembly myself. I already bought the engine stand yoke.

I've consulted with Steve Weiner a few times and he indicates there are some "secrets" to getting these engines rebuilt properly so they perform well and don't leak long-term.

I wanted to see if anyone here has done a DIY rebuild or knows anyone who's done it. Any regrets long-term? Any truth to the "secrets" that aren't readily accessible to DIYers?
3.2 Targa liked this
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By sundog
#27628
johnsopa wrote: Mon Sep 21, 2020 7:42 pm Figured I'd post this here since 964 and 993 people can respond...

My '90 964 has 50k miles, runs great but leaks a bit. It was never resealed. I replaced the clutch and installed a LFW and did the valves last winter. I wanted to sell the car but my wife loves driving it but it seems a bit slow /sluggish to me compared to our other cars.

So, I was going to bite the bullet and have Steve Weiner do the rebuild, doing a 3.8 with ITBs. However, he retired and I will have some time this winter, so I'm thinking of doing the rebuild myself.

I would have to send things out for machining (machine the heads for a gasket, clean up the heads, maybe do bore-in 3.8 P&Cs), but feel comfortable doing all the prep and assembly myself. I already bought the engine stand yoke.

I've consulted with Steve Weiner a few times and he indicates there are some "secrets" to getting these engines rebuilt properly so they perform well and don't leak long-term.

I wanted to see if anyone here has done a DIY rebuild or knows anyone who's done it. Any regrets long-term? Any truth to the "secrets" that aren't readily accessible to DIYers?
Sorry, but I just saw this one.

I rebuilt mine by myself. I certainly wouldn't do it just for leaks, as unless you get an A+ it will leak.

I took the 3 day engine rebuild class at Jerry Woods place here in the SF Bay Area. It is quite a task, and requires a lot of different tools and sealants to get the rebuild correct. I have a couple of leaks, but they are at the valve covers, and maybe one small one in the case. I put a GT-3 oil pump in mine, so the pressure is higher than standard.

The process took me a long time, but I did enjoy it very much as a learning experience.

I did the rebuild at about 120,000 miles. Since then I've put another 65K miles, with a large portion of those on the track. The engine holds up great, just leaves a mark. So I got a B on the rebuild.
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By Ponchobroke
#64069
John,
Did you ever do this?
I did a top end w/Steve and it turned out terrific. However, when it came time to do the entire engine for its 2nd life @ 165,000 it send it to Jeff @ Rothsport and have never been happier. The engine is new and includes the RS upgrades done during the top end.
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By 3.2 Targa
#65180
A pitted cam precipitated the top-end teardown of my 3.2L. It has 85k miles on it.
The cams are at John Dougherty's and the heads are at Elverud's getting rebuilt.

I'm fortunate to have some resources here locally. A 40-yr dealer tech and some others that have gone before me. I've found Pelican to be a great resource.

For me, this was about learning and doing. I've checked all the Px&Cs and they are all well within spec. By my calculation, the engine is about 45% done in the Ps &Cs. From what I can see/feel of the bottom end, it is solid.

I'm doing the exhaust-side head studs and updating the rocker shafts and a few other things.

Proper surfacing of the mating surfaces without changing tolerances is the trick to a leak-free build. It is some art and science.
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