- Sat Nov 28, 2020 9:07 pm
#38013
Here's mine:
The cable is flat enough to be placed in the same location as the factory flat grounding strap. It would also be very easy to wire in a whole car fuse. If you wanted quicker access to the switch, you could put a hole in the tool panel to be able to access the switch without removing the panel.
These are the components:
1x Battery terminal for 2 AWG wire:
30" of 2 gauge flat marine cable:
2x 3/8" 2 gauge ring terminals
1x 5/16" 2 gauge ring terminal
1 to 4 5/16" washers:
1x Battery Switch On/Off (275 Amp continuous, 455 Amp intermittent, 1250 Amp momentary): 3/4" Dual wall adhesive heat shrink tubing:
And how I assembled it:
1) Cut a length of wire so that with a 3/8" ring terminal on one end and the battery terminal on the other end, it will place the center of the battery terminal hole 21" from the body of the switch. You'll need to mock everything up and lay it out so that you can see exactly where the terminals will line up.
2) Do the same as above for the second wire, but with one end a 3/8" ring terminal and the other a 5/16" ring terminal. From the body of the switch to the center of the hole for the 5/16" ring terminal it should be 8-5/8".
3) Slide heat shrink tubing onto both ends of both wires. Strip the ends of the two wires. Crimp the battery terminal and 3/8" ring terminal to the longer wire, and the 3/8" and 5/16" ring terminals to the shorter wire. Pay attention to how the terminals are oriented with respect to the flat part of the wire. You'll want to make it easy to lay the flat wire along the lip of the battery tray opening and minimize the amount of twisting that you have to do in order to mount everything.
4) Heat up the heat shrink until you see the adhesive begin to squeeze out of the ends.
5) Bolt the 3/8" ring terminals to the terminals in the switch. After you assemble the switch, you will probably need to cut off the assembly bolts because they are usually pretty long.
6) Remove the factory ground strap. Make sure that the switch is in the off position and thread the wires into position. Attach the battery terminal to the negative post on the battery, and the 5/16" ring terminal to the grounding point that the factory ground strap was connected to. You may need to use 5/16" washers to space the wing nut high enough that it clears the new cable and terminal end.
For tools, a utility knife with a fresh razor blade works very well for scoring the sheathing on the wire. Good quality dikes work well for cutting the wire itself. Scissors are good for cutting the heat shrink, but the utility knife or dikes can work as well. A butane combination torch with the soldering tip removed works well for the heat shrink, but so does a heat gun, hair dryer or even a propane burner or butane lighter.
For crimping, you can definitely get away with a hammer crimper. But, a hydraulic crimper with hexagonal dies is best and easiest. You can also use solder slugs, if that's your preference.
The cable is flat enough to be placed in the same location as the factory flat grounding strap. It would also be very easy to wire in a whole car fuse. If you wanted quicker access to the switch, you could put a hole in the tool panel to be able to access the switch without removing the panel.
These are the components:
1x Battery terminal for 2 AWG wire:
30" of 2 gauge flat marine cable:
2x 3/8" 2 gauge ring terminals
1x 5/16" 2 gauge ring terminal
1 to 4 5/16" washers:
1x Battery Switch On/Off (275 Amp continuous, 455 Amp intermittent, 1250 Amp momentary): 3/4" Dual wall adhesive heat shrink tubing:
And how I assembled it:
1) Cut a length of wire so that with a 3/8" ring terminal on one end and the battery terminal on the other end, it will place the center of the battery terminal hole 21" from the body of the switch. You'll need to mock everything up and lay it out so that you can see exactly where the terminals will line up.
2) Do the same as above for the second wire, but with one end a 3/8" ring terminal and the other a 5/16" ring terminal. From the body of the switch to the center of the hole for the 5/16" ring terminal it should be 8-5/8".
3) Slide heat shrink tubing onto both ends of both wires. Strip the ends of the two wires. Crimp the battery terminal and 3/8" ring terminal to the longer wire, and the 3/8" and 5/16" ring terminals to the shorter wire. Pay attention to how the terminals are oriented with respect to the flat part of the wire. You'll want to make it easy to lay the flat wire along the lip of the battery tray opening and minimize the amount of twisting that you have to do in order to mount everything.
4) Heat up the heat shrink until you see the adhesive begin to squeeze out of the ends.
5) Bolt the 3/8" ring terminals to the terminals in the switch. After you assemble the switch, you will probably need to cut off the assembly bolts because they are usually pretty long.
6) Remove the factory ground strap. Make sure that the switch is in the off position and thread the wires into position. Attach the battery terminal to the negative post on the battery, and the 5/16" ring terminal to the grounding point that the factory ground strap was connected to. You may need to use 5/16" washers to space the wing nut high enough that it clears the new cable and terminal end.
For tools, a utility knife with a fresh razor blade works very well for scoring the sheathing on the wire. Good quality dikes work well for cutting the wire itself. Scissors are good for cutting the heat shrink, but the utility knife or dikes can work as well. A butane combination torch with the soldering tip removed works well for the heat shrink, but so does a heat gun, hair dryer or even a propane burner or butane lighter.
For crimping, you can definitely get away with a hammer crimper. But, a hydraulic crimper with hexagonal dies is best and easiest. You can also use solder slugs, if that's your preference.
captainOCD, Hey_Allen liked this
Vehicle: 1987 Porsche 928 S4