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[Fox_]

I'll never rebuild another set.

Once was enough for me.

[SeanR]

I'm done with rebuilding them also. Easier to call up Roger and ask for new from him or [email protected] and get rebuilds.

[worf]

I've seen receipts from shops that charged the new price for a rebuilt and kept the core charge (so... $1000 per axle.)

IIRC rebuilds from Mark are $350-ish each, exclusive of core charge. I've done many over the years and have no non-trivial complaints. (I'd like the clamps to be cad plated... )

If you've got a torn boot that tore last week (as opposed to N years and umteen-thousand miles because checking boots every year isn't a thing) and you are paying yourself, then a boot kit or four makes sense.

Else, not.

On several occasions with known low-mileage 1/2-shafts with just-torn or dry-rotted boots, I've had the client save ~500 bucks by suggesting they come over and do the dirty work involved in boot replacement. I hand them a stool, a bucket, three cans of brake clean, a big fan, etc. and sit them outside... When they're done I waltz over with the Oetiker clamp pliers(*).

Most of the time they listen when I tell them not to let the balls fly loose.

(*) No. Never that easy. But a man can fantasize.

For my 928s, if I've got two torn boots on one 1/2 shaft or if it's the outer boot, fuck it. I'll get a rebuilt; I don't pay myself enough to clean CV joints.

[SeanR]

I've rebuilt dozens upon dozens of them. Easy but dirty to do and I usually charge 2 hours per side to do so. Over the years I've had a couple cars that had vibrations and we went through everything possible to eliminate that vibration. The last 3 cars that had nagging vibrations, the only solution was to replace the axles and that only came about after everything else was done. Engine mounts, engine dampers, torque tubes, flywheels, balanced clutch components etc.

One car the owner said just to order new so I did and it was a night and day difference. Amazed at how it changed. 2nd car was mine and I didn't want to buy new (cheap ass) so contacted Mark and talked about his rebuild service. I'd not gone that route before because I figured all they did was what I do, which was cleaned them up and changed the boots. Nope, his guy takes apart the outer and does it properly. New joints/over sized balls if needed and does a proper rebuild. So I tossed those on and am very happy. 3rd car. the same. Used rebuilds and if it were not for a front transmission seal leaking he'd be very happy with the results. Reminds me, I need to take a trip to Tulsa and take a transmission out and reseal it.

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[Crumpler]

Who here has forgotten to torque the six hex bolts to spec?
Besides me :)
Unique rear end flavor ensued.

Ok this is real: is the axle nut a single use, or did I make that up?

[Fox_]

Yeah, just "spin the hub nut off".

Hope you've got a hell of a breaker bar with 3/4" drive!

...as for the clamps... I use the same tool I have for PEX plumbing.

Clean the hell out of the holes for the hex drive nuts on the transmission and use loctite... I learned that lesson with the top caliper bolt on a greasy land rover. Loctite doesn't work very well in a greasy hole.
.

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[Crumpler]

Yes sure, but where’s the sport in having the right tools?

I want you to do it with a 3/8 inch harbor freight socket and an aluminum fence post!

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[SeanR]

Remove your muffler and resonators to make it easier. Axle nut is around 320ftlb. Rest is gravy.

If you are only leaking from the boots where it clamps on, it's over filled and just wipe it off. No need to yank the axles and replace boots if the boots are not split.

[worf]

... nagging vibrations, the only solution was to replace the axles and that only came about after everything else was done. Engine mounts, engine dampers, torque tubes, flywheels, balanced clutch components etc.

This -^, BTDT. One client had been to several shops and had been chasing vibration for a couple of years. Wasn’t easy to diagnose but once two rebuilt axles were on it the difference was noticeable just driving on the driveway to pull on to the street.

... Mark and talked about his rebuild service. I'd not gone that route before because I figured all they did was what I do, which was cleaned them up and changed the boots. Nope, his guy takes apart the outer and does it properly. New joints/over sized balls if needed and does a proper rebuild.

And this.

I threw a set of Mark’s rebuilt’s on my ‘91 at 105-ish k-miles. Mine were factory originals.

Made a noticeable difference.

30-year old CV grease stopped being grease 10-15 years ago once the anti-wear package finished reacting with the base lubricant.

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[worf]

Do you know what the story is with the 44 and 45 tooth versions?

Do I *know*? No.

However I will bet you one million times the cost of the long distance phone call(*) that 45 vs 44 is a typo. Clues abound on the shop.928intl web site.

* From your phone with an unlimited domestic long distance plan.

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[worf]

However, a little digging revealed that the tooth count refers to the ABS ring. S4+ cars have less teeth on the ABS ring than earlier ABS cars.

This is true. However, on the site there are two 86.5-95 axles. One rebuilt, one used but with different tooth count. The base part number is the same. PET shows one part for the axle for 86.5-95 and I have never, ever come across a whiff that there are two axles for 86.5-95.

Occam’s Razor: Typo.

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[worf]

LoL.

[maddog2020]

Forget factory half shaft bolts. Stage 8 has what you need.

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[SeanR]

Those are very nice. I've got a good bit of experience with locking tabs on half shaft bolts on another vehicle where the bolts will back out if you don't do the installation exactly by the book (and many owners/mechanics don't). I've never heard of the 928 half shaft bolts backing out, though. Have you had a problem with that?

I never have. Use the proper torque and forget about it.

[worf]

... the bolts will back out if you don't do the installation exactly by the book (and many owners/mechanics don't). I've never heard of the 928 half shaft bolts backing out, though. Have you had a problem with that?

Exactly once. About 12 years ago. Did a house call to rework. SOP(*) updated. No problems since.

(*) Always make sure the bolts are clean and dry. Or replace with new.

Of course SOP always included using a torque wrench and a ‘double triangle’ pattern after the bolts are arm tight.

It’s a lot of fun, all by yourself, counter-holding the hub while you torque. Much easier with a helper to turn and hold the hub.

[maddog2020]

With 505 torque at the ground I had problems keeping them tight, and I also had issues with the crank bolt backing out. I always torque to spec and recheck . I’ve also seen high HP 930’s knock them loose.

[worf]

With 505 torque at the ground I had problems keeping them tight, and I also had issues with the crank bolt backing out. I always torque to spec and recheck . I’ve also seen high HP 930’s knock them loose.

Whole different ball game there.

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[worf]

When you’re doing 3/4” work, there’s no substitute for 3/4” tools.