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By chalkboss
#87193
Very excited to be putting in one of Sean's harnesses on my 87. Nice work Sean! Smells like a cigar lol.
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By chalkboss
#87241
Seriously I had no idea. The scent came out as soon as I opened the package. Thanks for the help as always Sean.
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By Geza-aka-Zombo
#87287
Looks like a nice piece of kit.
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By SeanR
#87301
If that was one I made last week, I was indeed enjoying a cigar as I made it. Sorry for the scent, first time I've heard that it transferred to the product. Then again I suppose everyone knows I have cigars in the garage and the wires/products are in the garage so no one has mentioned it. Coming in October/November that won't be an issue when I get moved in to the new shop. I have wondered if that is the case though. I can promise you, you won't notice it while driving the car LOL.
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By Stepson
#87384
Sean does make some damn fine FOE harnesses.
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By worf
#87386
SeanR wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:56 am Coming in October/November that won't be an issue when I get moved in to the new shop.
Don’t give up a marketing opportunity. Maybe you can charge a premium depending upon what kind of cigar was used in the construction process:)
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By SeanR
#87387
worf wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 2:07 pm
SeanR wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:56 am Coming in October/November that won't be an issue when I get moved in to the new shop.
Don’t give up a marketing opportunity. Maybe you can charge a premium depending upon what kind of cigar was used in the construction process:)
Padron 1926 Infused with a slight tinge of Buffalo Trace Bourbon. Need to think about this one.
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By worf
#87389
SeanR wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 2:09 pm Padron 1926 Infused with a slight tinge of Buffalo Trace Bourbon. Need to think about this one.
Offer several options and let the purchaser decide what you get to smoke and drink while making their harness :roflmao:

Me, I’ll take alcohol-free construction :order:
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By chalkboss
#87928
Got the old one out and the new in, enjoyed random wafts of cigar :beerchug:

Ugly job, I have to say. I ended up pulling the alternator and sending that out to be rebuilt even though it's been okay the last 9 years I've had it. New high pressure PS line too. Tightened TB as it was just outside window on Kempf tool. Broke the damn TB tension warning light wire, there's no plug (it was hacked at some point in the past and they just pushed the connector onto the post) so I have a call into Roger.

Sean, on my OP sender the connections are marked G and WK. You provided blue/wht and blue/blk. Which goes where? Also, those two harness clamps, one on the crossmember and other inside the L/S timing cover were horrible to get off. Any tricks to getting them back in? Dreading that.

Really nice work Sean, just wish it came installed with a blink of the eye.
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By SeanR
#87930
If your sender has the spade still on it, the blue/black one will go there. If not, it's a 50/50 chance you will get it right, I usually leave the boots off the connection until the very last thing so when I put the battery ground strap back on I can turn the key on. If the gauge pegs to 5 then I know I got them backwards and swap them. No big deal if they are reversed, just swap.

Clamp on the cross member, I leave it in place and thread the harness though it. Take some long needle nose pliers and once you get some of the insulation through to the back side, you can use the pliers to grab and wiggle it through while working with the other hand to feed it.

For the Clamp behind the covers, while the alternator is out makes it easier from a visual stand point but I use a 6" 3/8 extension with a stubby ratchet with the bolt in the short 13mm socket. Aim the clamp so it points to the rear of the car, insert bolt and put it in. Trust me, you are going to fight it unless your lower radiator hose is out of the way. You will cuss, step back, think about it, do it again and it will go in right. You should be able to put the clamp on the heat shrink section and bent it around how you need to.
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By worf
#87980
A couple of tricks:

IIRC the OP sender pins are marked (under whatever grime is there.)

For the rubber-cushioned P-clamps, the problem is that your socket is too deep: too much of the bolt is "submarined" into the socket with too few threads showing to push through the clamp to engage those first few female threads. A quick trick is to stuff a small wad of paper towel in the socket so that only the bolt head is captured. That then let's most of the bolt stick out so that you have length to get through the clamp and then can push against the clamp pressure.

For the "professionals" :) get a cheap 10mm and 13mm socket and grind them down so that they just capture a bolt head. Those then become your special p-clamp tools.
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By chalkboss
#88071
Great tips guys thanks. I like the idea of "modifying" cheap tools for special use. Just used my sawed off box end for the tensioner adjusting. I'll report back when I get it done.

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