8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By Addlight
#110253
I am replacing the check valves in my windshield washer lines. To do it, I had to pull them out of their cavity in the hood. When I pulled them (a while ago), I tied a string to the driver side of the assembly so I could remove it on the passenger side and then pull it back into place with the string. Except, the string fell off.

So how have others rerouted their lines in the cavity? Drop a string through the driver side, fish it out on the passenger side and tie it to the lines, or use a coat hanger to push the lines through, or something better and more elegant?

Thanks,
Matt
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By worf
#110258
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By Addlight
#110320
Thanks. I've got a spool of fence wire that should serve as an adequate substitute.

Matt
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By Mrmerlin
#111037
IIRC someone has reworked the hose diagram to simplify it maybe a DrBob deal?
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By SeanR
#111039
If you don't care about the intensive washer system, don't care if it takes a few seconds to hit both spray outlets you can yank all the check valves and run a T from one nozzle to the other and then the inlet outside the hood.
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By Addlight
#111196
Thanks, guys. I have considered removing the check valves and have seen that diagram. I have never in my 15 years of ownership used the intensive fluid (or had the reservoir filled), so it's probably the best way to go.

But I have all these cool little check valves sitting on the shelf! Maybe I rebuild it to spec, and then once the new check valves fail I go to the simpler set up.

Matt
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By linderpat
#111322
I always use the simplified version when rerunning these lines. It works fine. The check valves are designed to keep the fluid from circulating all the way back to the tank, so that when you pull the squirter, you get instant fluid ejection to the windshield. It doesn't bother me that it takes a few moments for the lines to reload before squirting.
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By Jeff Spahn
#115885
Addlight wrote: Sun Oct 17, 2021 12:24 pm I am replacing the check valves in my windshield washer lines. To do it, I had to pull them out of their cavity in the hood. When I pulled them (a while ago), I tied a string to the driver side of the assembly so I could remove it on the passenger side and then pull it back into place with the string. Except, the string fell off.

So how have others rerouted their lines in the cavity? Drop a string through the driver side, fish it out on the passenger side and tie it to the lines, or use a coat hanger to push the lines through, or something better and more elegant?

Thanks,
Matt

I used Honda checkvalves and honda Y splitters to make the system work much better. Kept the intensive washer system.
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By 7-51
#115975
I added a check valve between the tank and the pump, when the tank gets below around 1/2 the water level is below the pump and took even longer to prime for me.

:eek:

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