8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By h2pmr
#123840
air pump finally turned up from ebay, it does turn over but has a nasty squeak with it and the bearings feel rough.
but everything is there and nothing is damaged on the outside, so thats a good start.

disclaimer: if the :hitfan: after you follow my method of rebuilding, don't blame me :thumbup:

i believe all model years of air pump have the same internals

First job is to unbolt the front pulley, rear heat shield air hose and the rear alloy housing.

next post will be striping the main pump down.

anybody in the UK wanting a rebuilt pump please contact me as i could do them cheaper than i list them on ebay.

i will show how i reinstalled the blades and sliders etc, but worf has made my mind up it is actually pretty pointless and quite time consuming

and i figure those that want/can rebuild them themselves will do, and those that can't/ don't want to will either have to remove the belt or buy one rebuilt at some point, genuine ones are £1,200'ish i believe.

+ in the next few weeks i will do a thread on what's involved in reinstalling the factory radio amp, the Blaupunkt BQA80, another pointless thread really, but it might be of use to someone.
cheers
Phil
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Gary Knox, Don Smith, Bertrand Daoust and 1 others liked this
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By Bertrand Daoust
#124227
Thanks for doing this. :thumbup:
BTW, I have few pictures (about 30) of the air pump. Exterior and interior parts.
Like this.
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Just let me know if you need other pictures.
Or I can post them all here if you want.
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By h2pmr
#124543
Thanks Bertrand, i should be ok for pictures, as long i get them in focus, hands not as steady as they used to be.

so with the parts mentioned in my last post removed it looks like this :
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now you need to remove the part that the front pulley was bolted to.
gets a large thick piece of metal, use the pulley to mark the positions of the 3 holes you need to drill and drill the holes.
then get 3 bolts about 15mm long and bolt the plate to the pump, bolt length dependent on how thick i piece of metal you are using, if bolts are to long they will go right through and damage the pump casing, should look like below:

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then evenly tighten the 3 bolts a quarter turn at a time, it is quite tight, if it feels to tight give the bolt heads a tap with a hammer, if the bolts turn a little freer keep going and it should now pull up until it is flush with the metal plate:
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then slacken the bolts and insert a 10mm nut between plate and the middle of the hub and tighten the bolts up to pull the hub fully off the shaft:
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it may need a second nut under the plate to fully pull the hub off, but when its off it looks like:
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now look at the main rear housing and you will see 2 dowels 1 small and 1 larger, i tap these out with a punch, try to put a socket behind them when you tap them, don't need to be fully out, just so they come out of the alloy housing:
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then remove the final bolt holding the rear housing to the alloy hosing and gently pull the rear housing all the way off, then will look like:

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back to the front and remove the circlip holding the front bearing in.

now all parts you have removed from the main housing need a good clean.
i use the wire wheel side on a standard bench grinder, takes a while to get a good finish on them all + clean out any crap inside the alloy part with the inlet and outlet pipes on.

NEW PARTS NEEDED:
rear bearing
Major Branded B188 Imperial Drawn Cup Open End Type Full Complement Needle Roller Bearing 1-1/8x1-3/8x1/2 inch

front bearing
62032RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm

x4 of these for the pump blades, only needed if you are refitting the blades.
BA65ZOH Imperial Needle Roller Bearing 3/8x9/16x5/16 inch

O ring sizes needed are: 1x 23.5x2
1x 25.0x2
more next time.
cheers
Phil
Bertrand Daoust liked this
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By h2pmr
#124717
next job is to remove the part that houses the blades:
use a press.
you can use a hammer to knock it out but every chance you will mushroom the end over so it will need filing down to get the pulley to fit back on and the front bearing is only held by a small amount of the alloy hosing so you risk cracking it then its game over
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once you have it removed, lift off the thin shims, metal plate + gasket, the gasket can be BRITTLE, be careful, and note which way round it came off
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then turn it over to see the bottom bearing housing.
note that one of the holes is smaller than the others in this housing, scratch/dot punch the main body to mark where this hole goes when refitting.
remove the 4 allen key bolts and remove the bearing hosing, the gasket can be VERY BRITTLE be careful when you remove it
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then slide both blades down and out
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the blades run on bakelite type sliders, in groves either side of the blades, these need to be removed.
when the body is on the bench as below, the groove on the left is the one with the small sprung metal plate behind the slider, its removed on the second picture
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the other side slider will be a tight fit to remove, if you are not going to refit the blades, it will pry out with a screwdriver.
and thats pretty much the disassembly part done :drink:

now ALL parts are to be cleaned inside and out, the cleaner you get it now the longer it will last
what the inside of my hosing looks like before i have cleaned it
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leave the top bearing in the housing while you clean it.

i will cover how i fit bearings to the blades and make the sliders in another post

thats it for this year gents, i now need to clean it all myself and wait for the bearings to turn up
will post the rebuild when i get it ready.

hope we all have a happy and safe 2022 :beerchug:

cheers
Phil
User avatar
By h2pmr
#125414
if you are going to refit the blades:

after the blades are nice and clean you need to remove the bearings, i had to make a special tool out of a 17mm pipe spanner.
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the tool or the blade is NOT clamped in the vice, it just rests on the jaws of the vice and the outer part of the blade is resting on the tool
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then using a 5/16" 3/8" drive deep socket tap the bearing out, below is with the bearing freshly tapped out and resting in the tool.
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then turn the blade over and do the same with the other bearing.
once all bearings removed turn the TOOL over- again the tool nor the blade is not clamped into the vice it just rests on the top of the jaws- and tap the new bearings in with the 3/8" drive end of the socket, might need to use one of the old bearings on top of the new bearing to get it in the middle of the blade.
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so you have the new bearings in the blades, now you MAY need to make the sliders :frown:
the spring loaded slider is the usual one that wears, measure with micrometer, if less than 4.5mm i replace them
you will need some acrylic sheet 5mm thick, below was perfectly square, before i cut 4 blades out of it.
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yes i know they are not very straight, but as the blades need to be approx 5mm x 5mm, its better to rough cut on the large size and gently grind to size.
they will also need a sand down as the groove they run in is 4.8mm thick, but nobody does 4.8mm acrylic sheet.
then its just take your time to get the right size and shape.
very time consuming but thats how i did mine.

rebuilding the pump itself is next.

cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#125751
putting it back together:
so you have got it ALL lovely and clean, you will find a dark grey strip on the inside of the alloy housing, that seems to be where all the worn off slider material bonds itself to, you will need to scrape it off with a screwdriver and then get at it with ever finer sandpaper to get it nice and smooth:
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and then it should look like:
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now fully clean
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next tap out the front bearing, if you remove it before you clean everything you risk dislodging the thin shim that goes around the outside of the bearing race, which can be tricky to refit, so a quick tap out of the old and straight back in with the new.
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use the old bearing on top of the new one to press it in, and DON'T PRESS IT TO HARD or it could crack the casing, then refit the circlip, make sure the circlip goes fully into its groove, if the gap between the ends of the circlip is less than pictured its not fully in its groove:
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next refit the bearing into the rear housing, once it is pressed flush, use the old one to press it in the last 1% as it fits exactly in the middle of the housing, so it should be as pictured:
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more next time
cheers
Phil
User avatar
By h2pmr
#125763
IF you are refitting the blades, now is the time, fit the fixed slider into its groove, then fit the blades as a pair, then slide the other side slider into its groove and finally fit the sprung steel strip behind the slide
then gasket and rear bearing housing is bolted to the bottom of the spinning body, use a small amount of loctite on the threads, remembering which way up the gasket goes and aligning the small hole with the mark you made on the body when taking it apart:
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fit the top gasket, metal plate and thin shims, then put the alloy housing over the top, turn the whole thing over and press the spinning body through the top bearing, -i find it easier to press it in "upside down" as the outer edges of the alloy housing are nice and flat to sit on the bed of the press.
the spinning body should be flush with the alloy hosing when fully pressed down.
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then turn it over and press the pulley mounting flange on -6 holes face out-, and is pressed down until it looks like the last picture
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am now still waiting for the paint, so next weekend for the final thrilling? installment :thumbup:

cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#127054
final part.
after masking the inside surface of the rear housing and a few coats of black brake caliper paint later, this and the front pulley look better than they did at the start
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then coat the rear bearing in red lithium bearing grease:
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then smear a very thin layer of loctite 574 on the alloy housing to seal to the back housing, only need a very thin layer
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then put the rear housing on gently, put a couple of bolts in loose just to stop it moving around and then fit the 2 dowels.
i find it easier to use water pump pliers on the dowel and other side of the housing and tap the jaw of the pliers to put the dowel in as below:
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then fit the 2 O rings in the recess's of the rear housing and bolt it down, making sure the O ring stays in place, and tighten. once all 4 of the bolts are tight make sure front pulley mount turns nice and free and no strange noises. .
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then fit the front pulley -use a small amount of locktite on the bolt threads -and rear heat shield - no loctite on these bolts, never loctite into alloy
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and that's it all done, cold beer time :beerchug: , or warm beer this side of the pond.

i could have plated the bolts and hear shield etc, but prefer it to look like a really clean version of an old pump and not a brand new pump.

hope this is of use to somebody someday.
cheers
Phil
Bertrand Daoust liked this
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By h2pmr
#127190
first picture shows the adjuster bracket 928113115 04 which a basic online PET says is 77-79 WITH option code M573 =A/C

second picture shows the adjuster bracket 928113113 10 which covers 80-95, i guess all after 80 had A/C

can anybody confirm that the 04 adjust bracket is actually for 77-79 WITHOUT option M573 ?

cheers
Phil
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User avatar
By worf
#127193
h2pmr wrote: Sun Jan 09, 2022 5:00 am first picture shows the adjuster bracket 928113115 04 which a basic online PET says is 77-79 WITH option code M573 =A/C

second picture shows the adjuster bracket 928113113 10 which covers 80-95, i guess all after 80 had A/C

can anybody confirm that the 04 adjust bracket is actually for 77-79 WITHOUT option M573 ?
Pretty sure *not*. All of the accessories on the ‘77-‘79s mount in ways that are substantially different.
User avatar
By h2pmr
#127244
Thanks Worf, i will stick it on ebay and see what happens :drink:
cheers
Phil

Excellent graphic!

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