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By Shifted
#11612
I plan to replace my motor mounts this fall as preventative maintenance since I'll be doing the oil pan gasket anyway.

From what I recall, the volvo mounts position the motor about 1/2" higher than the stock mounts, and they require some modification of the safety hooks to prevent vibrations. Is that correct? Vertical clearance is a factor for me due to my intercooler. Losing half an inch could be an issue for me.
User avatar
By SeanR
#11615
I've installed so many of the Volvo mounts and found what others have repeated with out using them as amusing. If anything, the engine sits when put back together maybe 2-5 millimetres higher than the stock ones. I use the straps that come on the Volvo mounts and eliminate the lower hook plate from the car when installing them and everything sits as it should. If you get the mounts from Roger, you do not have to modify anything at all.
Shifted wrote: Tue Aug 25, 2020 11:57 am I plan to replace my motor mounts this fall as preventative maintenance since I'll be doing the oil pan gasket anyway.

From what I recall, the volvo mounts position the motor about 1/2" higher than the stock mounts, and they require some modification of the safety hooks to prevent vibrations. Is that correct? Vertical clearance is a factor for me due to my intercooler. Losing half an inch could be an issue for me.
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By Shifted
#11617
Ok, so you're saying that they do sit up to 5mm higher, but no higher than that? My clearance from intercooler to hood is very tight, so I'm pretty sensitive to the height difference. 5mm is .2 inches. It isn't much, but it could be a factor for me when the motor moves.

I'm not concerned about quality, purely height. And whichever ones I get (volvo or oem), I'll get them from Roger.

Maybe what I need is one of them fancy hood scoops...
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By worf
#11624
SeanR wrote: Tue Aug 25, 2020 12:02 pm ... the engine sits when put back together maybe 2-5 millimetres higher than the stock ones. I use the straps that come on the Volvo mounts and eliminate the lower hook plate from the car when installing them
The lower plates are a couple of mm thick, so, if not removed that 2-5 becomes 5 mm to hyperbole mm.

What I have noticed is that the Cortico (Volve OEM) does sit higher but settles after a few hours of run time. After settling it’s about right even with bottom plates. OTOH, the height is only an issue with ‘extra stuff’ on the motor, or for Euro 16vs.
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By SeanR
#11629
worf wrote: Tue Aug 25, 2020 12:24 pm
SeanR wrote: Tue Aug 25, 2020 12:02 pm ... the engine sits when put back together maybe 2-5 millimetres higher than the stock ones. I use the straps that come on the Volvo mounts and eliminate the lower hook plate from the car when installing them
The lower plates are a couple of mm thick, so, if not removed that 2-5 becomes 5 mm to hyperbole mm.

What I have noticed is that the Cortico (Volve OEM) does sit higher but settles after a few hours of run time. After settling it’s about right even with bottom plates. OTOH, the height is only an issue with ‘extra stuff’ on the motor, or for Euro 16vs.
I actually started to type exactly that, but then remembered I've been leaving the bottom plate off. Started doing that a few years ago and using the straps that come with them instead of the hook system. Even when I've used the hooks, I never encountered any vibration from them hitting but think at one time I advised people to just bend the hooks if that is what their issue is. Don't think I've done it myself.
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By Shifted
#11630
Thank you, gentlemen. It sounds like the lowest height with volvo mounts is achieved by removing the lower plate and running the motor (driving) for a bit. I'm sure that they are fine for a stock car.

The only way to know if it will work on my car is to try it. They are cheap enough to be worth trying. I will take before/after measurements and post them when I do the work in a few months.

Thanks again.
Last edited by Shifted on Tue Aug 25, 2020 4:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By worf
#11691
SeanR wrote: Tue Aug 25, 2020 12:33 pm Even when I've used the hooks, I never encountered any vibration from them hitting but think at one time I advised people to just bend the hooks if that is what their issue is. Don't think I've done it myself.
So yeah, the stock bottom plates are a pain in the ass with the Volvo mounts. However, I've never had a problem with the hooks rubbing. Once the engine squishes the mounts they're fine. For motor-out, I have a spare engine carrier to get them squished, clocked, and wired.
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By Shifted
#13392
Any experience with the Anchor solid motor mounts?
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By SeanR
#13402
Shifted wrote: Sun Aug 30, 2020 6:30 pm Any experience with the Anchor solid motor mounts?
Yep, used to install them until the shipped the manufacturing from india to China and ended up with 1/2 hollow/unfilled and 1/2 solids. W/o drilling in to the mount, there was no way to know if you had a solid or non-filled hydraulic one. We ended up replacing a load of cars free of charge because of that debacle. Been using the volvo's since then and have zero reason to use any others.
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By Shifted
#13409
Wow, that's nuts! I only ask because it looks like they are shorter. Meh. Decisions.
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By SeanR
#13412
Shifted wrote: Sun Aug 30, 2020 7:38 pm Wow, that's nuts! I only ask because it looks like they are shorter. Meh. Decisions.
I had a picture a while back with an Anchor, Porsche and a Volvo and there were no height differences when standing next to each other. Can't find it though. Could be the Volvo was slightly higher uncompressed but in real world use, they are not. I'd ignore the BS you are reading about them being 3/4" higher or whatever they are saying right now.
User avatar
By Shifted
#13417
I am sold on the Volvo mount being about the same height as the OEM mounts. What I have read over the years is that the Anchor mount is even shorter than the Volvo and OEM mounts. Enough so that people would insert some washers to make them higher.
User avatar
By Landseer
#14654
Anchors collapsed for me. I still have one car with a 2008 set that lasted a long time but needs changing now.
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By worf
#14750
Landseer wrote: Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:15 am Anchors collapsed for me. I still have one car with a 2008 set that lasted a long time but needs changing now.
I changed a lot of failed Anchors for free.
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By SeanR
#14755
worf wrote: Thu Sep 03, 2020 2:23 pm
Landseer wrote: Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:15 am Anchors collapsed for me. I still have one car with a 2008 set that lasted a long time but needs changing now.
I changed a lot of failed Anchors for free.
Same with me. Although it wasn't too painful, we held a few tech session on the weekends with a bunch of us DFW guys and knocked out 3 per day. It's amazing how quickly they can be done when you have 5-6 guys who have done them before.
User avatar
By hans14914
#15179
I can't believe there are already 15 posts and no one here has suggested the Jager Speed Mount!
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By worf
#15180
hans14914 wrote: Fri Sep 04, 2020 1:18 pm I can't believe there are already 15 posts and no one here has suggested the Jager Speed Mount!
Meh. I prefer the Bridgestone speed mount.
User avatar
By SeanR
#15211
hans14914 wrote: Fri Sep 04, 2020 1:18 pm I can't believe there are already 15 posts and no one here has suggested the Jager Speed Mount!
Funny story on that.

Had a guy in Arkansas call me telling me about his car at a Porsche shop in Tulsa and they couldn't figure out what was going on with the car. Had a vibration, real bad. Shop diagnosed it as a bad LH so I had them send me the LH to test and it was just fine. Shop called me telling me I had no idea what I was talking about etc. I asked them how they determined the LH was bad and what computer system they were using to come to that conclusion. Of course they didn't have a KTS300 or the like. Guy pulls the car out of that shop and sends it down to me. Motor mounts. So I took an old timing belt, cut it up and wrapped it in duct tape and put it between the engine and cross member. Vibration gone. Customer asked me what he owed me for that since he is a dealership and didn't want to spend much money on this car. Told him $18.00 and he's good to go. He laughed and asked what I'd charge for a belt/pump job and he was amazed it wasn't as much as the other shop had quoted him. Did that and he's been a customer for 12 years or so.
User avatar
By Shifted
#15262
Sean, what was the height with that motor mount? That might be the best route for me. Do you still recommend the duct tape wrap or should I consider electrical tape?
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By worf
#15263
SeanR wrote: Fri Sep 04, 2020 2:18 pm ... So I took an old timing belt, cut it up and wrapped it in duct tape and put it between the engine and cross member. Vibration gone.
Gates or Conti speed mount :lol: 'cause you know those Conti speed mounts...
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User avatar
By Shifted
#17277
I have the car on the lift to wrap the exhaust, look things over and do an alignment. I checked the motor mounts while I was at it. I had mistaken the rusted metal of the brackets to indicate that the mounts had failed. The rubber is fine, and the bottom of the oil pan is about level with the bottom of the cross brace. These appear to be OEM mounts from what I can see. I guess I don't need them quite yet.

Regardless, when I do eventually replace them, it will be with the Volvo mounts.

I did find a part number for the Anchor mounts that is supposed to be for the solid rubber version, in case a lower height is required. I don't think that I need that, but it's nice to know for future reference: 2698SR (I gather that the "SR" means "Solid Rubber"). The regular 2698 model is the one that should be fluid filled.

Anyway, I'm convinced to go with Volvo mounts from Roger when I need them :)
User avatar
By Landseer
#17595
We were all buying the solid anchor version back in 2008 or 2009.
Maybe they were ford ranger part number?

Anyhow, we downstream customers all learned that solid didn't mean solid.

So consider the anchor a two level mount. One height when installed. A second even lower height 60 days later when they cave in on themselves.

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