8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By Landseer
#12037
It's been a while, but as I recall removing the blower motor does not provide access. The box should com out, and it isnt that difficult to do, and I think blower motor is also removed or loosened in that process. Am needing to address blower motor removal my brown car this weekend, am glad to work project in virtual tandem with you if you want.

Used to be that removing blower box was an almost mandatory activity when bringing home another 928, so to reseal box to body and stop leaking water.
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By worf
#12097
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 10:59 am My recirculation flap actuator is leaking very badly. Or, more likely, the vaccum hose isn't connected to it. It holds zero vacuum. I've traced the vacuum line all the way to the hole under the blower fan and the line is intact and the line itself holds vacuum fine.
So, the flexible silicon line from the firewall plenum that disappears into the recirc box does not hold vacuum?

But, the blue plastic line that connects to the silicon line and disappears into the dash does hold vacuum?
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 10:59 am From what I've been able to determine, the entire recirculation box has to be removed from the dash in order to access the actuator.
Correct. If the answer to the first question us yes, then the only way to remedy is to remove the recirc box. You cannot get to the actuator or the silicon hose connection with the box installed. You *may* be able to access the actuator and connection by partially withdrawing the recirc box into the passenger compartment. But, I don't see utility in that because it's not too much more effort to get the box out completely so as to do a good job of cleaning and replacing the strip caulk used to seal the box to the metal surround. (You will hate yourself if after re-installation you do a water test and see water dripping onto the CE panel.)
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 10:59 am But, I've never had the blower motor off before. With the blower removed, is the actuator diaphragm accessible enough to verify the vacuum host connection and reconnect it if it's disconnected?
No. Box as to come out at least partially.

IIRC, Sean removes the blower and box as a single unit by dropping it into the passenger compartment. I tried that once and it didn't work exactly that way for me.

I usually remove the blower from above and then the recirc box from below. This makes WYIT stuff easier. Specifically, removing debris from the evaporator, recirc box, drains, and plenum around the area. And cleaning of those areas.

If you want to try Sean's method I'll let him expound on it.

If you want to remove from above or if Sean's method doesn't work for you then post back.
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By SeanR
#12110
Nah, you have to unbolt the blower first. One screw/bolt just under the lip of the coupler going to the evaporator. One screw/bolt just under the hood hinge. One long screw/bolt on the underside of the airbox inside the car. That one always stumps people. Once the blower motor is loose you go inside, pull the glove box, pull the CE panel wood covers, unbolt the CE panel at the lower 10mm bolts holding it to the floor. Got about 10-12 bolts holding it in place along with the goo used as a sealant so get a paint scraper or like took to assist in prying the box down. Go outside and use your hand to push the box down some, go back in and repeat that a few times and it will come out.

Doubt any of that made sense but it is my mind typing it out.
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By worf
#12118
SeanR wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:20 pm Nah, you have to unbolt the blower first.
K. Maybe it's Stan that says he does it that way.

I dimly recall that the one time I tried it that way, there was no way to get the blower out from below.

I agree completely with the rest of your description. On the airbag cars glove box removal adds more 'fun' to this job.

And of course: *always* always always do a water test when everything's back together.
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By SeanR
#12121
Sure twastn't me. Can't see how that's possible or why someone would want to do it that way. I mean, I suppose one could skip taking out three small bolts and make things much harder, but not what I want to do.
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By worf
#12124
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:27 pm Given the other issues that I've found on the car, it's likely that it's just not hooked up.
Most likely the rubber diaphragm is cracked. From, just a few minutes ago, looking at a loose recirc box I have, it's not easy for the silicon line to detach from the actuator even if you try.
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:27 pm I need to replace the hood pad anyway, so it seems like a good time to do everything all at once. Pull the hood, pull the blower motor, pull the recirculation box, clean the evaporator, replace the blower resistor pack (mine works, but might as well put a new one in), etc. I'll be sure to seal the flap properly before re-installation. Thanks for the tip.

Worf, I think that I have a pretty good handle on the process, but if you have a prepared guide that you are willing to share, or a link, by all means!
If you are pulling the hood, the only other thing you may need to do is to remove the hex-head screw that fastens the corner of the windshield cowl to the chassis. (You'll see when you get there.) That will allow the cowl to move 'up' just enough to wiggle the blower out. Some 928s need that some don't; 928s aren't built to modern day tolerances.
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By worf
#12126
SeanR wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:35 pm Sure twastn't me. Can't see how that's possible or why someone would want to do it that way. I mean, I suppose one could skip taking out three small bolts and make things much harder, but not what I want to do.
Ja. Didn't make sense to me but I tried it anyway :) Never again.
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By SeanR
#12134
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:50 pm
So, yes. Sean will have to build yet another FoE harness. Whenever I get around to replacing it later this year.
That I can do man, just let me know. So far this is the first week in several months that I've not made any. Did 5 last week so I ain't complaining.
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By SeanR
#12148
I love making the FoE's, I actually find it relaxing, even the double harnesses of the early cars. I don't have to focus on anything else or do any trouble shooting. Since Rog put them on his site they have been selling like mad.
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By worf
#12166
Shifted wrote: Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:50 pm However, this car was taken completely apart at one point, and things were put back together in interesting ways.
Ah! I'm getting the picture now. Ok. I thought we were dealing with a run-of-the-mill fixed-when-broken 928.

If it's been "thoroughly touched" then all bets are off.

Of of the 928s I have here right now is like that: thoroughly touched and some really stupid shit I've found. (3 of 8 spark plugs finger tight, at best, etc.)
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By worf
#12363
These anecdotes (edit: from all of us) probably deserve their own thread.
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Sean, I know…. It’s a tough call.

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